This tutorial will change your life. A little. Maybe? At least it did for me! For years I always struggled with what to do with the inside seams of my projectsĀ – without a serger on hand they were often left to fray, meaning over time my piece would start to lose its shine. Not ideal. A year or so ago my boyfriend’s mum showed me how to sew a French seam, basically a quick process of elegantly covering the inside raw edge of any seam, andĀ I have to say it’s taken my projects from somewhat amateur to ‘where did you buy this’Ā level. Here to show you how it’s done is our in-house seamstressĀ (and illustrator, crafter and all round creative genius) Annie, in our second instalment of ‘Ask a Patternmaker’. Take it away Annie!
It seems the moment you put the word french in front of anything (think: fries, toast and poodle) it makes it sound a whole lot fancier. Ā I guess the same can also be said for the french seam, aĀ sewing technique that works a bit like magic and lets you hide any evidence of fraying edges and wonky cutting, something I am frequently guilty of. We often use french seams in the studio to create a more professional look to our DIYs, and it’s perfect when working with silk or delicateĀ fabrics that wouldĀ otherwise be eaten alive by an overlocker (yeah, been there before). Most recently we used the french seam to make this DIYĀ silk camisoleĀ and because a few of you asked, we thought we’d show you the process in more detail. Read on to see how!
How To Sew A French Seam
You need
-
- Silk fabric (cut into two rectangular pieces)
- Pins
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Sewing machine and thread
How to
- Pin the two pieces of fabric together, wrong sides facing each other and sew with a 1.2cm (1/2″) seam allowance.
2. Cut the seam allowance back to 3mm (1/6″). The key with this step is that you want the seam allowance short enough so that when you turn and sew the seam on the opposite side (which I will show you in the next couple of steps), the seam allowance will not be sticking out, but not too short that the seam can break open.
3. Once you’ve trimmed the seam, open the fabric up and iron the seam flat to one side.
4. With the raw seam facing towards you, grab one side of the fabric and fold it over to the other sideĀ so that the seam is now in between the two layers. By ironing the seam flat in the previous step, it helps you create a nice sharp crease at the seam.
5. Pin the seam together making sure the raw seam is caught close to the edge on the inside of the two layers of fabric.
6. Sew the seam again, this time with a 6mm (1/4″) seam allowance. (Note: that this seam allowance should always be larger than the seam allowance of the first raw seam).
7. When all the sewing is done, your french seam will look like this. There should not be any raw edges visible now.
8. Open the fabric and iron the french seam flat to one side. The side the french seam is on will be on the inside of your garment.
All done. What’s not to love about this little trick?
Ahhh…it took me a second but I finally get it! Genius!
It’s sew easy isn’t it? š
Before I got an overlocker I was always doing a French Seam, I actually prefer the look of this seam rather than an overlocker if I’m honest š Great How to
Thanks! Great to hear you love this as much as we do. x
Wow, this is exactly what I needed for my sewing projects, thank you so much for sharing this!
https://www.makeandmess.com/
Yay! x
This is what I need to make my sewing projects look professional!
This is sure to take them up a notch x
Love it!! I love all your sewing projects. I wish I can conquer this skill.
http://www.thedailyweeklyblog.com
You totally can!!
Finally some more DIY! Thanks for these great tips. I have always struggled with this technique and already have a project in mind xo
Ps. I feel like you’re trying to become a travel blogger lately! Please stick to DIY and keep the projects coming. You’re the best at it and I don’t want you to become something so many other people already are xoxo
Thanks so much Sophia, I’m so glad you like it. And thanks for the always valuable feedback.
Don’t worry, I would never stop creating DIYs in favour of going completely down the travel blogger route. But you’re right, we have definitely evolved the content of this site over time to focus on creativity and design as a whole (travel, home, craft and fashion) rather than just DIY Fashion. Why? I found that as I evolved in terms of my own interests, so too did my readers, and in this way we get to go on this journey together. I think (or hope) that by keeping that common thread of creativity through everything we/I do, we’re always being true to the spirit of why I started this blog 7 years ago.
We’re working on a new site at the moment that will make it easier for you to hone in on content types that you love, so hopefully that will help everyone. The current layout of this site doesn’t really allow you to get to what you want quickly. I mean, in the last month we’ve done 8 Fashion DIY projects, 3 Home DIY projects/posts, 2 Travel posts and 2 Life posts. Definitely a leaning towards mainly DIY content, but perhaps it’s hard to notice because the travel posts can be so image heavy?
Thanks again for reading and taking the time to comment, I’m so eager to give you guys what you want so feedback is always appreciated. x
Ohhh ok. So creativity is now your jam? Like it. So excited to see what you’re new site looks like. What changes are you making? I do really love what you have already so don’t go crazy ok š I think the layout does let me see what I want quickly from the main menu. Hmm I think the travel aspect leans to your Instragram also. Most of your photos are travel related, not DIY or creativity related so I’m getting confused xoxox Ps. Thanks for a great reply, I’ve been a huge fan for ages!
In France we call it “couture anglaise”!
That’s so funny Margo! So in France you call it English Seam and in the English speaking world we call it a French Seam. Why must the world be so confusing?
This looks totally doable!
– Seyra x
http://www.pavementsarerunways.com/
Goodmorning
I love all of your blogs and sewing tutorials and tips.
I don’t know if it is me and/or my visual impairment. I am a very visual learner! A thousand written instructions would still not help me achieve these great techniques! I am wondering if it would be possible to demonstrate the techniques, using contrasting threads? I understand time and space are premium. I really do appreciate all that is blogged about!
Have a great day!
Darlene
Thank you for the tutorial, very helpful! Might I suggest that you use a light colored fabric for the next tutorial, and/or a bold contrast thread. This will make it easier to see what you’re doing and to understand the instructions. Thanks again!
Growing up in the 50s and 60s in Canada every girl in school studied what was called “Home Economics”. I think it was a compulsory course from grades 7 to 10 but could take that course for 5 of your 6 High School years. Which is what I did.
We started learning to sew in 7th Grade and through the years were taught French Seams; Flat-felled Seams, hand and machine finishing and ever kind of buttonhole including the tailored kind you find on expensive suits, the name eludes me but you made them by adding a patch of fabric that would, on the right side of the garment bind all sides of the hole – really classy looking.
I am so grateful that I grew up in such an era when I learned so many cooking, sewing and homemaking skills.
I design and make things all the time, have all my life and enjoy doing it all. My skills learned in school were super valuable while I raised my six children and still are.
It’s excellent that you’re learning these skills/tricks such as a “French Seam” for making garments. Many DIY projects I see on YouTube appear to me, to be made to be temporary, “wear-a-bit” and discard garments. Being “old school” I shudder when I see those DIY videos that show people how to make inferior garments that won’t last and look shoddy from the first wearing.
Although I’m a Grandma and much of where you go what you buy and do doesn’t apply to me I’ve enjoyed your Blog – very nicely done! Thanks
I love that you are teaching the art of sewing to a new generation. My only comment is about using black fabric for the tutorial; especially with black thread. It is very difficult to see. Can you sometimes use a lighter color, perhaps muslin? (w/a contrast thread)
Enjoy your blog!
May I recommend ironing the first seam allowance before trimming? IAnd using a pair of scissors that are designed to cut fabric, not bonsai? A longer blade is easier to work with when trimming a straight edge, and ironing that seam makes it easier to cut straight.
So if I would normally sew a 5/8″ seam, what seam width should I use if I do French seams?
Thank you so much for sharing this. I’ve looked everywhere for a tutorial for the French seam and yours is the easiest and most clear instruction I’ve found. “Sheer” relief for fraying delicates and other fabrics!!